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Culinary Craftsmanship

Cover Story

September 27, 2020

Story By: Ginger Keller | Photos by: MARK GALACGAC

(From left) Chefs Tony Lai Hipp, Russell Siu and Lydell Leong showcase 3660 on the Rise’s takeout offerings.

3660 on the Rise has been around for nearly three decades, so you could say it knows a thing or two about perfecting a plate full of the finest foods.

Co-owner and executive chef Russell Siu gives complete credit to his grandparents for igniting this culinary fire within him that got him where he is today.

As a boy coming of age in Kaimuki, Siu typically could be found in the kitchen alongside his grandfather, who would be preparing various traditional Chinese dishes. His grandpa, originally from China, grew up without ever having a refrigerator. Old habits die hard, so he would visit his favorite Chinatown shops to pick up fresh meats and produce every single day. Siu continues to practice this philosophy by ensuring that 3660 on the Rise utilizes the freshest local ingredients possible.

Duet of Fire Roasted Long Island Duck ($39.50)

Siu’s grandmother, meanwhile, was born in Hawaii, which could be recognized by her melting pot of tips and tricks that Siu still uses today.

Sharing an almost parallel upbringing, chef de cuisine and Honolulu native Lydell Leong, too, fondly remembers cooking with his family as a child. Rather than watching television as most youngsters do, Leong was perched right next to his grandmother, who also was a big fan of Chinatown’s freshest finds.

Meal to Go special: 5-ounce New York Steak Alaea and five pieces of Crispy Garlic Scallion Shrimp ($25)

One of Leong’s all-time favorites has been a staple since the restaurant’s early beginnings back in ’92. The Ahi Katsu ($20.50) features sashimi-grade ahi wrapped in nori that’s then deep fried to medium-rare perfection. It’s served with a wasabi ginger sauce. The Soy Sake Broiled Butterfish ($43.50) is another beloved plate of his, and includes sesame-scented grilled bok choy, garlic shiitake mushrooms and hatcho miso ginger nage.

A starter that you won’t find at any average restaurant is the Fire Roasted Spanish Octopus ($20.50). This seafood specialty is served with a lemon paprika marinade, smoked tomato ragout and chimichurri over crisp potato wedges.

Apple Cinnamon Pull Apart Bread ($10)

If tentacles aren’t your thing, opt for an entrée like Duet of Fire Roasted Long Island Duck ($39.50). This unique offering encompasses a duck breast with lilikoi coulis over a stir-fried blend of seasonal veggies — but that’s not all. A crisp duck leg with a pan-seared Chinese taro cake is included with a pineapple plum compote. Today’s Fresh Catch ($30), on the other hand, is aptly named as it provides fish at its best in a crispy panko coating with steak fries and a lemon caper aioli.

“People are drawn back to us because we have great food and consistency with a friendly staff,” says Leong. “We like to think our dining room is inviting with a ‘homey’ feel to it.”

Today’s Fresh Catch ($30)

Although not yet open for dine-in services, those wanting to indulge in 3660 on the Rise from the comfort of their own home can order its Meal to Go ($25) special. Enjoy a 5-ounce New York Steak Alaea, five pieces of Crispy Garlic Scallion Shrimp with a honey chili aioli and steamed rice with furikake on top.

“The Meal to Go and the Today’s Fresh Catch were designed to offer people value,” explains Leong.

When it comes to desserts, this Kaimuki eatery does not mess around. Its Chocolate Soufflé Cake ($11) is well loved for obvious reasons, such as its magnificent melted chocolate core. It comes with vanilla ice cream and mocha sauce. For a limited time only, an Apple Cinnamon Pull Apart Bread ($10) is available, so be sure to get it before it’s gone.

We’d be remiss to not mention 3660 on the Rise’s passion for wine. And, right now, it’s offering a 3660 Wine Mystery Bag, where patrons pay $125 to receive four bottles straight from its inventory.

“We have our wine list available for 30 percent off individual bottles, and we also have a wine sale table that offer $30 bottles of wine,” says Leong. “Our mystery wine bag includes four bottles of wine that includes a bottle of Rombauer, Jordan, Champagne, Turley or Whitehall Lane.”

All of the items that make up 3660 on the Rise’s diverse menu pay sweet homage to the influential individuals that Siu and Leong hold close to heart, which can be tasted in each dish prepared.

For more information regarding hours of operation and to view the full menu, call 737-1177 or visit 3660ontherise.com.

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