Even steak gets better with age

Why complicate things? Food doesn’t have to be complex to be delicious, especially when it consists of fine ingredients.

Such is the sentiment of restaurateur Wolfgang Zwiener. His steakhouses from Manhattan to Tokyo pay tribute to the simple things in life — salt, pepper, olive oil, some butter, fresh vegetables and proteins — coming together to create something that’s, oh so decadent.

Lucky for us locals, we only have to travel as far as Waikiki to get a taste. Wolfgang’s Steakhouse manager Fumiaki Matsuka has the lowdown on the most popular items.

“The fresh shrimp is really tender and the bacon is smoky,” says Matsuka. No, he’s not talking about an entree, but rather the eatery’s signature Wolfgang’s Salad ($18.95). Scoop up spoonfuls of the salad’s thick-cut Canadian bacon, chopped shrimp, tomatoes, green beans, onions and red peppers dressed with extra virgin olive oil and white wine vinegar nestled in an iceberg lettuce cup. Surprisingly, the protein-laden dish still tastes light.

While the salad is a big hit, the main attraction at Wolfgang’s is a 28-day dry-aged prime-grade Porterhouse Steak (for two $109.95). During the aging process, evaporation concentrates the meat’s flavor and enzymes tenderize the muscle. Not only does aging improve the meat’s texture, but it also imparts a pleasant earthy flavor, much like that of blue cheese. “The porterhouse is popular because it’s a T-bone with two kinds of steaks in one dish. One side is filet mignon and one side is sirloin,” explains Matsuka.

The behemoth steak arrives at the table sizzling, sliced and with a golden crust. The meat’s simple seasoning of salt is sufficient, but feel free to try a dab of Wolfgang’s own steak sauce.

The hearty steak takes the cake, but don’t forget the sides. Creamed Spinach ($11.95) and Mashed Potatoes ($11.95) are the perfect counterbalance. To make the two steakhouse staples, chopped spinach is simmered with heavy cream until it’s bright green and velvety, and mashed tubers are mixed with cream and a modest amount of butter for a fluffy result.

When it comes to fine steakhouse dining, Wolfgang’s is a no-brainer. With an elegant, spacious dining room and top notch service, you get just the right amount of pampering without too much fuss.

Wolfgang’s Steakhouse

Royal Hawaiian Center
2301 Kalakaua Ave.
922-3600
Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m.
Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Lunch till 3:30 p.m.
Weekend Brunch: Saturday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m.