Sous chef Alan Nguyen, restaurant manager Wes Zane, and chef de cuisine Eric Oto within the newly renovated Hoku’s at The Kahala.
For almost 55 years, The Kahala Hotel & Resort has attracted a wide range of high-profile clientele, from the Dalai Lama to Queen Elizabeth to the Rolling Stones. Locals and tourists also have been drawn to The Kahala’s beaches, ballrooms, luxury suites — and Hoku’s, its fabled signature restaurant.
Named for a dolphin born in The Kahala’s lagoon, Hoku’s, built in 1996, became known worldwide for eclectic cuisine and spectacular views. Earlier this year, the restaurant underwent a major renovation, its decor and furnishings given new life via remodeling and modernizing.
Crispy Skin Moi ($38)
Resorttrust Hawaii, which purchased The Kahala in July 2014, worked with its Japanese parent company’s design and architectural team on the multi-million dollar renovation. “They wanted to take the restaurant in a new direction, and refresh the concept and atmosphere,” says restaurant manager Wes Zane. “The redesign provides a more approachable feel.”
Intriguing textural elements, including bronze marble inlay, coconut shells and black granite, offer stimulation for the senses. Custom-made light fixtures resemble hoku, or stars, and booths have been updated with gently curving partitions reminiscent of waves.
Big Island Goat Cheese Cake ($14)
With the installation of granite counters, a new salamander and fryer, retractable heat lamps and a spectacular combi oven, Hoku’s kitchen also received a significant update. And its menu has undergone a metamorphosis as well.
“This menu is so different!” exclaims chef de cuisine Eric Oto. “It’s more modern. We wanted to make it less intimidating — elegant, but not stuffy.”
A local boy and avid fisherman whose dad was a farmer, Oto is reverent of sustainability, local ingredients and island culture. His exciting new menu includes four distinctive sections whose names are thematically inspired.
Charred Spiced Octopus ($19)
Ka Lawai’a (“The Fisherman”) spotlights Hoku’s spectacular seafood dishes. Kona Kampachi Crudo ($17), an appetizer made with aji amarillo and sustainable farm-raised kampachi from the Big Island, is a standout here. “We don’t do much to it,” says Oto. “We want to let the kampachi speak for itself.”
In Ka Mahi’ai (“The Farmer”), the focus is on farm-to-table favorites. In this category, Local Goat Cheese Duo ($17) includes cheeses from Maui and Hawaii islands, plus roasted beets, pear, avocado mousse and lilikoi. “People rave about this dish! Everything in it is local,” says Oto.
Kona Kampachi Crudo ($17)
From the section called Ka Holo Kahiki (“The Voyager”): Charred Spiced Octopus ($19) is inspired by lomo saltado, a classic Peruvian steak dish, and contains dark purple Peruvian potatoes. “And it has a little French influence, because I take local olena and do a turmeric soubise,” Oto adds. “This category is a playground.”
The dishes in the fourth section, Kilo Hoku (“The Steersman”), have a special connection to Oto’s life and experiences, including Crispy Moi ($38). “Moi was once only for ali‘i (royalty),” says Oto. “I remember catching my first moi at Bellows. I was so excited to bring it home to my dad!”
Also from Kilo Hoku: Certified Angus Beef Rib Chop (market price), a 28-ounce dry aged bone-in ribeye perfect for ohana-style sharing. The steak receives a rub of Oto’s own blend of house-smoked Alaea salt and herbs.
Certified Angus Beef Rib Chop (market price)
Here’s a sampling of highlights from Chef Eric Oto’s Tasting Menu
$130 per person; $175 with wine pairings
LOCAL GOAT CHEESE DUO
Surfig Goat Dairy & Hawaii Goat Dairy roasted beets, Asian pear, avocado mousse, spicy lilikoi, pistachio
Pairing: Henri Bourgeois, “Les Baronnes” Sauvignon Blanc, Loire Valley
Local Goat Cheese Duo ($17)
CRISPY SKIN MOI
Hamakua Ali’i mushrooms, lemongrass soy vinaigrette, long bean, dried scallop-nameko mushroom rice
Pairing: Donnhoff Estate Riesling, Nahe, Germany
PRIME FILET MIGNON
(Supplement with 2 ounce A5 Miyazaki Wagyu strip loin/$30) Charred hearts of palm, Brussels sprout, shallot potato puree, burgundy jus
Pairing: Trefethen Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon Oak Knoll, Napa Valley
HAWAIIAN CHOCOLATE CREMEUX
Crisp macadamia nuts, white chocolate mousse, tangerine sorbet
Note: complete menu available at kahalaresort.com
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