Summertime and the Eatin’ is EasyAli Carte Columns
July 21, 2013
Story By: Ali Resich | Photos by: Nathalie Walker
When talking about Pacific Rim dining in Hawaii, 3660 On The Rise is undoubtedly part of the conversation. Since 1992, executive chef and owner Russel Siu, with help from chef de cuisine Lydell Leong, has been at the forefront of creating fusion-filled eats that blend local produce, seasonal ingredients and a healthy dose of Euro-Asian flair.
While the establishment is known for a host of Island classics, Siu and Leong are constantly collaborating on new items to keep their menu fresh. With summer in full swing, the eatery has a slew of bright, enlivening dishes perfect for the season. Here, Leong shares some of 3660’s most summery bites.
For starters, nothing beats the heat like a colorful salad, and the restaurant’s Tomato and Mozzarella Salad ($12) is no exception. The dish combines indulgent slices of house-made truffled mozzarella with Prosciutto di’-Parma for a base of sophisticated flavors. Local tomatoes and Dry Land Nursery micro basil bring the garden right to the table, while truffle oil, Kona sea salt and a smoked balsamic reduction finish off this incomparable dish.
When it comes to entrees, seasonal Copper River King Salmon ($31.50) reigns supreme. The special takes advantage of summer’s rich, fatty — and therefore extremely flavorful — salmon fillets. Composed with a delicate combination of ingredients, this main course is perfectly crafted to play off, and highlight, the salmon itself.
“When we’re trying to think of what will go with what, we let the main ingredient speak for itself, first and foremost, and try to keep it simple,” says Leong.
To balance the salmon’s robustness, Leong uses a roasted lemon garlic butter sauce. “Because the salmon is little bit oilier, we thought a lemon type of butter sauce, or beurre blanc, would go good … I wanted a warmer type of acid so I roasted the lemon. And so it kind of caramelized the lemons and brought out a lot of color, too,” he says.
Leong then crafts a relish from juicy local tomatoes, Kahuku corn and shiitake mushrooms before adding some of his sweet soy drizzle to the dish. “It gives a little sweet to offset the acid or the fat, as well as the brightness from the lemon,” he says.
The Copper River King Salmon’s finishing touch lies in a combination of micro greens, which Leong designed himself, To give the dish a final burst of flavor, Dry Land Nursery micro shiso, bull’s blood (deep red beet leaves) and micro amaranth add a refreshing bite and give the entree a gorgeous presentation.
Be sure to save room for a zesty summertime dessert, such as warm Lemon Pudding Cake ($8.50) served with vanilla ice cream, fresh berries and the restaurant’s own lemon-scented wafer cookies. “It’s very light and airy,” adds Leong.
It’s the perfect time of year for a spirited fusion of flavors at 3660 On The Rise.
3660 On the Rise
3660 Waialae Ave.
Tuesday-Sunday, 5:30-8:30 p.m.