A Taste of Manhattan Here at HomeAli Carte Columns
March 24, 2013
Story By: Ali Resich | Photos by: Rachel Breit
You don’t have to travel all the way to New York to enjoy an authentic steakhouse. In fact, at Wolfgang’s Steakhouse on the third floor of Royal Hawaiian Center, everything from prime USDA Black Angus meat to an elegant decor scheme is exactly as you’d find it at any of founder Wolfgang Zwiener’s four steakhouses in the Big Apple. It’s just that in Waikiki — you can chomp away on a sumptuous filet while gazing out of expansive windows that overlook breezy Kalakaua Avenue with its tall, rustling palms.
Ever since Zwiener opened his Waikiki location in 2009, patrons have been awed by thoughtfully prepared and carefully executed meals of supreme quality.
A beautiful example is Porterhouse steak for two ($104.95).
“It’s a specific cut from the short loin,” says executive chef James Donahue, who grew up on the Winward side and traveled to NYC for three months to learn the establishment’s culinary secrets. “It has to measure at least two inches outward from the bone to the end of the filet.”
This 32-ounce piece of exquisite meat — often hand selected by Zwiener himself — then goes through a renowned dry-aging process, in which it is kept in a chilled 35-36 degree room for 28 days.
“We age on site,” explains Donahue. “We really want to seal the meat so all the flavor stays inside, and it intensifies the flavor even more.”
The resulting beef dons a gorgeous marbleization, which hints at its flawless flavor. No fancy seasoning or elaborate marinades are needed, just the true essence of the beef, which is best highlighted with a straightforward char and broil. Once it’s brought to your table, sizzling in its own juices, you’ll truly understand the meaning of tenderness and juiciness.
The steakhouse’s appetizer menu also is full of sophisticated eats. Wolfgang’s Salad ($16.95) features generous chunks of bacon mixed with shrimp, roasted red peppers, green string beans, onions and tomatoes in a red wine vinaigrette.
Then there’s Wolfgang’s Crabcake ($22.95), prepared with jumbo lump crab meat as well as mixed greens and house-made tarter on the side.
For unbeatable New-York style fine dining, head to Wolfgang’s.
Royal Hawaiian Center, Building C, Level 3
2301 Kalakaua Ave.
Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m.